Discover old Dubai, from Islamic crafts to culinary walks (2024)

This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).

In a place of superlatives — highest, biggest, priciest — why settle for simple pleasures? Dubai has long been seen as a fun-loving, unabashedly ambitious city, often overshadowing the UAE’s more serious-minded capital of Abu Dhabi. It’s a place where you can swim above clouds in 360-degree infinity pools or quaff co*cktails in billowing beach cabanas, and it’s this ‘City of Gold’ most travellers come for. A winter sun utopia, it dazzles with opulence and novelty, from the soaring architecture and dancing fountains of Downtown to Jumeirah’s luxury hotels and the Marina’s million-pound yachts.

It may seem like it all rose fully formed, mirage-like, from the surrounding dunes; indeed, it only took a generation for this improbable desert metropolis to spring from the ground after the 1960s — a feat fuelled by new oil-funded wealth. But the city’s roots stretch deeper, and to far humbler beginnings.

Sipping chai from a street vendor’s vat and inhaling spices in a warren of souks: these are the joys of ‘Old Dubai’, in its northernmost reaches. In the 16th century, this once impoverished port became a pearl-trading hub and attracted a global diaspora around its Creek, a natural harbour splicing the disticts of Deira and Bur Dubai. Merchants from across the Middle East and beyond brought recipes and traditions to this medley of markets and mosques. Today, the scent of slow-roasted lamb still wafts from Afghani restaurants, sewing machines thrum in Pakistani tailor shops and heaps of Omani frankincense are swapped for a few dirhams — the deal sealed with a shukran, the Arabic for ‘thank you’.

Between the old and new is a city that’s maturing. There’s a cultural centre highlighting the little-known warmth of the Emirati way of life, while intimate supper clubs, independent art galleries and homely wellness studios provide an antidote to the palatial luxury. In the alleyways of Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood, part of Bur Dubai, the ancient coral and sandalwood mansions of minted pearl traders have been converted into courtyard cafes, artisanal shops and delightfully niche museums specialising in coins, coffee and calligraphy.

Beyond Al Fahidi’s minarets and wind towers — chimney-like structures used for ventilation — you might spy a distant flash: the silver spire of the world’s tallest tower, the Burj Khalifa, just a 20-minute taxi ride southwards. That’s Dubai’s real kick. It still chases those superlatives, but it treasures the small gems, too, and is all the richer for it.

See & Do

Traditional Souks
Haggle in Bur Dubai’s Old Souk for hand-woven fabrics, raw silk and delicate laces, then head across the Creek for more perusing at Deira’s neighbouring Spice and Gold Markets. Cross the waterway with an abra boat: it’s the traditional way, and a one-way trip costs just 1 AED (£0.22). Carrying bags laden with Emirati dates and Iranian saffron, you’ll feel like a merchant of old.

Frying Pan Adventures
Led by locals, these culinary walks of Old Dubai take in the kind of hole-in-the-wall restaurant and unassuming street food stalls you’d have a hard time finding alone. Try sizzling Indian pakoras (vegetable fritters), syrupy Palestinian knafeh pastries and other recipes from Lebanon, Iraq, Syria and beyond. For lighter bites, there’s a new Old Dubai Quickie Snacking Tour. Kids go free May to September.

Free beaches
Dubai may be famous for it flashy beach clubs, but the city has free-to-access stretches of sand, too, each with its own unique appeal. Aptly named Kite Beach offers watersports including paddleboarding and kitesurfing, while The Beach, JBR is flanked by designer boutiques. For seafront jogging with skyscraper views, make for Palm West Beach, the promenade on the ‘trunk’ of the man-made, palm-shaped Palm Jumeirah island.

High-end views
Dubai is synonymous with sky-high attractions, from the Burj Khalifa’s 1,483ft At the Top observation deck to Dubai Frame, where a glass-floored walkway takes in views of the city old and new. Or opt for Aura Skypool, the world’s highest 360-degree infinity pool, which has swim sessions, yoga classes and boozy brunches suspended nearly 700ft above Palm Jumeirah.

Hero Boats
From yacht rentals to sunset cruises in heritage-style dhows, there are countless ways to enjoy the Persian Gulf. Half jet ski, half speedboat, these nippy two-seaters can reach up to 30m/h for a thrilling look at the Burj Al Arab and Palm Jumeirah.

Platinum Heritage
Escape to the desert in an open-top Land Rover, ideal for spotting rare Arabian oryx amid an ochre ocean of dunes. An hour’s drive from the city, Platinum Heritage’s Bedouin camp offers a glimpse at life before Dubai’s oil boom, with guided astronomy, henna painting and more.

Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding
Located in Al Fahidi, this cultural centre encourages frank conversations with Emirati locals, where no topic is off limits. Book a traditional meal or workshop on Islamic crafts, part of a wider programme of guided tours and mosque visits.

Buy

Alserkal Avenue
Located in cool Al Quoz, this western district has over 70 art galleries, independent boutiques and artisanal studios set in former industrial warehouses. Visit Oo La Lab for bespoke perfumes, The Edit for one-off fashions or Iwan Maktabi for modern Islamic artworks.

Lucky Kids Trading
Don’t be fooled by its name: this emporium in Al Fahidi sells great-value Asian and Middle Eastern clothes for all ages, from Indian lehenga skirts and batik-print Malaysian kaftans to Sri Lankan saris and more. Be sure to ask for a complimentary cup of chai while you browse.

Souk MadinatJumeirah
Haggling is expected in most of Dubai’s souks, but for a more laid-back experience with fixed prices this boutique market is a popular compromise. It’s a modern take on an old-time bazaar, complete with stands and stalls, winding alleys and wood-framed walkways, and features jewellery, art and curio shops galore.

Eat

Arabian Tea House
Tables are arranged around a courtyard at this Al Fahidi institution, open since 1997. Rattan chairs and lace curtains set the scene for the traditional meal to come: cardamom-spiced gahwa coffee, biryani-style chicken machboos and plump shrimps still sizzling from the coals.

Seva
Located a few blocks back from Jumeirah Public Beach, this wellness studio has a plant-based, health-minded garden restaurant with rustic wooden tables and leafy plants. Book a yoga or meditation class, then recharge with fruit-filled acai bowls or a coconut ceviche with mango and fresh lime.

Bubbalicious Brunch
Of all Dubai’s brunches, this family-friendly buffet has got to be the most lavish. Held every Saturday at The Westin Dubai Mina Seyahi Beach Resort & Marina, it’s an all-you-can-eat extravaganza of sushi, curry, mezze and more round-the-world dishes, with table-side entertainment and free-flowing bubbly.

Sleep

Rove Downtown
Buck the trend for Downton’s five-star opulence with the Rove, a budget-friendly option around a 10-minute-walk from Dubai Mall. The pared-back rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows, while the common areas for working or lounging pop with plenty of colour and design quirks. As well as a Burj Khalifa-facing swimming pool, there’s a free shuttle bus to the beach.

XVA Art Hotel
Set in the former home of one of Dubai’s wealthiest families, this boutique hotel epitomises Al Fahidi’s Old Arabia charm. It’s centred around tree-shaded courtyards, where the cafe serves fattoush salads, mujaddara (rice, lentils and onions) and more vegetarian bites. Contemporary Middle Eastern art punctuates all spaces, from the on-site gallery to 15 bespoke guest rooms.

One&Only One Za’abeel
Shaped like a giant ‘H’, this self-styled ‘vertical resort’ is the most outlandish addition to Dubai’s skyline in recent years. There’s a three-storey wellness area, 12 dining options and the UAE’s longest infinity pool, while guest rooms pay homage to the surrounding Za’abeel (‘white sand’) district with neutral tones and sand motifs.

After Hours

Dubai opera
This 2,000-seat opera house hosts some of the finest names in classical music, notably talents from across the Middle East — as well as concerts, plays and ballets thanks to a flexible floorplan. Come early for a tour of the dhow-shaped building, with backstage access to dressing and trap rooms.

Ce La Vi
Downtown’s glittering towers seem close enough to touch from this roof terrace: up on the 54th floor of Address Sky View hotel, it’s pure Dubai glamour. Sit at the Skybar, where the order of choice is a zesty-sour ‘shiso margarita’ (tequila, yuzu, agave and sumac).

Sunset kayaking
Watch as the city skyline becomes a silhouette against the pink sky on a sunset paddling excursion. Crystal Clear Watersports has glass-bottomed kayaks fitted with yellow neon lighting; as the skyscrapers’ lights flicker to life, so do yours.

Like a Local

Social meals
Supper clubs in Dubai reflect the city’s diaspora. Nicaraguan cuisine is served by candlelight at Girl and the Goose, while K’iin whips up a Mexican menu in an open kitchen. Or keep an eye out for Eye Heart Rabbit, a wandering Middle Eastern pop-up.

Evening strolls
Creek-side Al Seef is a new-build homage to ancient Arabia — a modern district with palm-thatched roofs and brass-studded doors. Its sikkas (alleyways) come alive at night, especially on Fridays, when locals socialise over mint lemonade.

Down time
Hotels in Dubai offer seriously flashy outdoor fun. Emiratis in the know rely on discounted passes like Groupon to access these five-star facilities for the day; Fairmont the Palm, for example, has several pools, a white sand beach and a watersports centre.